There are some dining experiences that live long in the memory. Experiences burned into your very soul.

Experiences that you’ll share with friends and family so often that you can almost feel the eye rolls coming seconds after you leap with both feet into a conversation about the best restaurant in town and loudly declare: “That sounds great, but have you ever been to . . . “

And heaven help those who disagree. You may have only eaten there once but by God you’ll defend its reputation (and your recollections) with the same ferocity a mother elephant might show a lioness pride charging her newborn.

For our family, that restaurant is Jaspers in Pemberton — a low-key gem perfectly blending contemporary style with a rustic and cosy ambience, that in the depths of a frigid South West winter feels like a big warm hug.

An extra level of sophistication is added given Jaspers also doubles as a whisky bar, with a truly extraordinary (and carefully curated) global collection of such variety that has absolutely no business whatsoever being in a town of less than 900 people. More on that later.

We had spent the best part of a year spruiking Jaspers’ credentials to city slickers after a trip to the picture-perfect Karri forests last year, and another visit was the first thing we locked in after deciding to return over the recent school holidays.

Anticipation was high as we stepped back inside to escape the chill.

There’s a speakeasy vibe as you enter the bar, while the main dining area on the other side — complete with red brick partition wall, jarrah floors, a longhorn cow skull and a bookcase full of trinkets that all work to add a nice homely touch — is intimate dining, with only a handful of tables.

There’s more sheltered space outside with heaters but tonight was very much indoor weather that required close proximity to a fire.

My daughter had to come back and lead me to the table after I got distracted by the dizzy array of whisky bottles that line the shelves behind the bar.

Menus delivered, and with a beautifully balanced whisky sour ($25) in hand, we got busy deciding if we’d do a few dishes to share or go solo.

The small plate starters range from $16 for the likes of truffle mash or hand-cut fries all the way up to $36 for garlic butter marron.

We opted for last year’s crowd-pleaser to start, the mac and cheese ($19). It came topped with bacon jam and parmesan and again left us making all those noises you’d expect from a dish that forces you to close your eyes to savour those perfect cheese and cream flavours.

While it is absolute heaven, only those with the biggest of appetites could get through it alone — the three of us only just managed.

Was it just as good as we remembered? So far, so very special.

The mac and cheese was accompanied by the Italian meatballs made from Black Angus and wagyu beef ($26) which, sadly, while rich and heartwarming, was a little on the chewy side and not the melt-in-the-mouth highlight we remembered from last year.

The first crack.

Having filled up on two starters (plus the hand-cut fries) and remembering the generous portions of the mains, we went for two to share between the three of us — the 200g eye fillet steak that’s served with truffle mash and vegetables and a red wine jus ($62) and the classic paella ($38).

The steak was spot-on medium rare and the jus just enough to elevate the dish without being overpowering. The quality of the steak deserves it and the kitchen knows exactly how to get it right.

The paella is not for the faint of heart. It’s a beast of a meal that comes with toasted ciabatta. It’s rich, aromatic and you certainly can’t complain about the quality or quantity of the mussels, prawns, snapper and chorizo. But, on this occasion at least, the overall finish was just too sticky and more the texture of a risotto than a paella.

The second crack, but a minor one we’ll chalk up to an off night.

Now almost bursting at the seams, we closed out the meal with the Jaspers bourbon brownie ($19) to share. Again, a more than generous portion that we all agreed came close to topping the mac and cheese as the evening’s highlight.

There’s plenty of local wine options, but for whisky lovers, no visit to Jaspers is complete without a flight to send you on your way.

They cater for the whisky novice right through to the seasoned professional who has that rich Scottish peat flowing through their veins. Something to suit every taste is available and the very knowledgeable staff are on hand to help guide you.

The flights (which come with tasting notes) are served neat but are accompanied by water and ice to help you truly appreciate the flavours that can be unlocked.

So, overall did Jaspers go one better than last time?

No, but I’ll still maintain it’s a spot-on style setting that offers one of the most enjoyable dining experiences you can have in the South West. And anyone who says otherwise . . .

The verdict: 17/20

Style, plenty of substance and a laid-back South West vibe that doesn’t disappoint. A must-visit for whisky connoisseurs.

Jaspers

23 Brockman Street, Pemberton

OPEN: Tuesday to Thursday, 5pm-9pm; Friday & Saturday, 12.30pm-2.30pm, 5pm-9pm

CONTACT: jasperspemberton.com, 0403610626 (SMS only)